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water catchment overflows and cover lifts

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  • water catchment overflows and cover lifts

    Does any one have a diagram of an overflow (3" PVC pipe and fittings) for water catchments? Also has anyone found a cheaper alternative than the $250 catchment cover lift that suspends the cover off the water in a canopy fashion?

  • #2
    Re: water catchment overflows and cover lifts

    The overflow is basically a PVC pipe that extends out horizontally from the tank just above the high water mark. Some like to run a U-shaped trap to keep out the bugs while some simply go with a straight pipe.

    You can go elaborate as to keep out bugs but then you don't want a check valve system because it takes water pressure to open the valve. Sometimes the valve will get stuck and then you will overflow your tank.

    The problem with an overflowing tank is the fact that your cover will deform when the water breaches the top. In fiberglass tanks (like mine) an over flow could burst the tank walls.

    As for covers, not much you can do there except to use those tarps as seen on most doughboy's (low profile corregated steel tanks with liners).
    Life is what you make of it...so please read the instructions carefully.

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    • #3
      Re: water catchment overflows and cover lifts

      Yeah the 3" PVC overflow diagram is what I'm looking for. I think the inside PVC tube has to be submerged in the water lower than the outside discharge end. I'm not sure how much lower or if it matters. And how far does the bottom end of the "U" need to be on the inside of the tank.

      The cover canopy frame is just galvanized tubing welded to a metal ring. I can fabricate something out of scrap metal for about $40. But I'm not sure of the angle coming off the center ring or how long the "octupus" arms need to be.

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      • #4
        Re: water catchment overflows and cover lifts

        Originally posted by harpoon
        Yeah the 3" PVC overflow diagram is what I'm looking for. I think the inside PVC tube has to be submerged in the water lower than the outside discharge end. I'm not sure how much lower or if it matters. And how far does the bottom end of the "U" need to be on the inside of the tank.

        The cover canopy frame is just galvanized tubing welded to a metal ring. I can fabricate something out of scrap metal for about $40. But I'm not sure of the angle coming off the center ring or how long the "octupus" arms need to be.

        You submerge it in a similar way to keep the bugs out like a water trap. The length of the "U" can be whatever you want.

        The only reason why I don't like the idea of a "U" trap is because during the dry season that trap will be a place of stagnant water meaning mosquitos.

        For the most part, the catchment tank is not a good source of potable water. For that downstream filtering must be done in order to give you the quality of water you desire.

        I'd just put a fine mesh over the outflow of the PVC pipe to keep the bugs, ants, and worse...slugs outta the tank. This is a great excuse to buy a pair of pantyhose for those inclined with those fetishes

        To keep the slime and any mosquitos from the water itself I add about a cup of Clorox (yes the stuff you put in your wash for dazzling whites) in every full tank (5000 gallons) at least once a month. Then I filter it out with a good carbon filter.

        General rule of thumb for water treatment is 3-drops of Clorox per gallon of water. This is good if you plan on drinking questionable water.

        As for your galvanized canopy frame, make sure that metal doesn't sit in the water because of possible leachment of heavy metals in your water.
        Life is what you make of it...so please read the instructions carefully.

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