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It's a beautiful day on the west side. The water's turned choppy compared to this morning. Surf is up a little bit. And, it's a little windier than it was this morning. All in all, nuthin' outta the ordinary...yet!
Went to the beach today hoping to see 30' waves. Saw two turtles and a monk seal, but no 30' waves. Meh.
There's a really big difference between here and where you've lived before, TG. Here, the waves can rise from 6' to 30' within just a few hours, and then fall again just as fast.
In California, the ocean floor shelves up verrrrry sloooowly as it approaches the coast. Ocean depth remains relatively shallow for tens of miles offshore and waves can take several days to increase in size and then several days to drop again. But here in the islands there's no shelf at all, just immediate dropoffs to depths that stagger the imagination, and that's why the waves leap up and back down in size so fast. That's the simplified version of why you have to be patient.
But it's worth it!
Surf's up! Not huge yet but definitely on the rise on the west side. The wind has kicked up another notch or 2 and is driving the rain into my makai facing windows and slider. Kona storms mean leaks in my hale. It's time to make like a boy scout!
Any updates from around the state, in general, and Oahu, in particular?
Any updates from around the state, in general, and Oahu, in particular?
Nothing about the surf, but here's the latest on the wind from the NWS:
Issued at: 8:04 PM HST 1/14/09
A high wind watch remains in effect from Thursday evening through friday afternoon.
Winds on Kauai and Oahu will gradually increase on Thursday, with wind gusts of 50 to 60 mph possible Thursday night and friday. The strongest wind gusts are expected over the high terrain and across communities north and east of high terrain.
A high wind watch means there is the potential for a hazardous high wind event. Sustained winds of at least 40 mph, or gusts of 58 mph are possible, but not yet certain. Continue to monitor the latest forecasts.
Ramsey Wharton (KGMB's 'Sunrise') reported from Shark's Cove this morning. As of 7:30a the surf hadn't hit the projected heights. Possibly it was bigger at Waimea and I wondered why that wasn't the location of the report.
It's a very angry sea in Makaha with relentless line-ups. But, the waves aren't very big. Yet! The wind is about the same as last night.
Still fairly light winds here on the windward side. (Well, in a Kona condition like this we're temporarily the leeward side.) Ocean surface is flat and glassy, and because of the wind direction the waves, though small, are beautiful! Usually waves on this side are choppy because the tradewinds are pushing them from behind and chopping them up, but in Kona conditions the wind is hitting the faces and making perfect shapes. Plenty of surfers out.
There's a really big difference between here and where you've lived before, TG. Here, the waves can rise from 6' to 30' within just a few hours, and then fall again just as fast.
In California, the ocean floor shelves up verrrrry sloooowly as it approaches the coast. Ocean depth remains relatively shallow for tens of miles offshore and waves can take several days to increase in size and then several days to drop again. But here in the islands there's no shelf at all, just immediate dropoffs to depths that stagger the imagination, and that's why the waves leap up and back down in size so fast. That's the simplified version of why you have to be patient.
But it's worth it!
Oh, we were there all day. They definitely got bigger as the day progressed, but didn't hit the hyped up 35 ft everyone was buzzing about. Then I got home and heard the time had been pushed back. That morning the surf report had predicted the big waves to start rolling in around noon or so. But again- it was still a nice beach day!
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