Re: How bad is the surfing localism
I was aware of the surfer vs surf kayaker issue at San Onofre but I wasn't aware, as I mentioned earlier, of surf rage. Guns pulled over waves? I just don't get it? I truly don't. Regardless of the area. Waves?
I remember, as a kid, when my dad reminisced about the 'good ol' days'. Now I understand what he meant. I'm now reminiscing about the good ol' days of surfing in SoCal...basically 1957-1966. I surfed a limited number of breaks during that time...Brooks St. in Laguna, Doheny, San Onofre, Trestles and, my fave, Swami's in Leucadia. I don't ever recall any turf issues. I do recall everyone having a healthy respect for everyone else in the water. That was long before leashes. If someone wiped out another surfer was right there bringing the board back to the wipee! <g> There was certainly a fair share of incidents; usually someone wiping out and the loose board interfering with another surfer's ride. But, I don't recall one incident of surf anger much less surf rage. We were all out there to have a good time. Period. H3!!...it was such a good time I used to cut school to go surfing with my dad when he was between projects. He always wrote me a 'sick note' the next day. Ha! I was another 3 shades tanner!
Originally posted by nachodaddy
I remember, as a kid, when my dad reminisced about the 'good ol' days'. Now I understand what he meant. I'm now reminiscing about the good ol' days of surfing in SoCal...basically 1957-1966. I surfed a limited number of breaks during that time...Brooks St. in Laguna, Doheny, San Onofre, Trestles and, my fave, Swami's in Leucadia. I don't ever recall any turf issues. I do recall everyone having a healthy respect for everyone else in the water. That was long before leashes. If someone wiped out another surfer was right there bringing the board back to the wipee! <g> There was certainly a fair share of incidents; usually someone wiping out and the loose board interfering with another surfer's ride. But, I don't recall one incident of surf anger much less surf rage. We were all out there to have a good time. Period. H3!!...it was such a good time I used to cut school to go surfing with my dad when he was between projects. He always wrote me a 'sick note' the next day. Ha! I was another 3 shades tanner!
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